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The moment has arrived. You’ve just torn open the packaging on your firstGundammodel kit, inhaled that fresh plastic smell, and dumped roughly 8,000 tiny pieces onto your desk. Now you’re staring at this plastic jigsaw puzzle wondering if you’re supposed to gnaw the parts off the runners with your teeth or if there might be a more sophisticated approach.
Spoiler alert: there is. And contrary to what your impulsive late-night shopping spree on HobbyLink Japan might suggest, you don’t need to immediately remortgage your house for a complete modeling workshop. Let’s break down the Gunpla tool ecosystem, from “absolute bare minimum to avoid tragedy” all the way to “congratulations, you now own more precision equipment than your local dentist.”
Tier 0: Survival Mode (AKA: I’m Not BuyingAnything)
So you’ve got a Gundam kit but zero tools. Maybe it was an impulse buy, or perhaps a well-meaning relative gifted you plastic crack without the necessary tools. Fear not, as desperate times call for desperate measures, and your household contains several items that can substitute for proper tools in a pinch.
Nail clippers, while sacrilegious to mention in serious Gunpla circles, can technically remove parts from runners. They’ll leave horrific stress marks that look like tiny plastic scars, but in an absolute emergency, they’ll do the job.
A standard utility knife or box cutter works surprisingly well for cleaning up nub marks. For handling those microscopic stickers, ordinary bathroom tweezers can be substituted for proper modeling ones.
Will this approach result in thebest gundam mechaever? Probably not. Will there be stress marks that haunt your dreams? Most definitely. But technically speaking, you can build a kit with these household items. Just like technically speaking, you could perform an appendectomy with a spork. It’spossible, but nobody recommends it.
Purpose / Use Case
Nail Clippers
Emergency runner cutting; causes stress marks but works in a pinch.
Removing nubs; not ideal, but better than nothing.
Helps position stickers or press down edges.
Tier 1: The Bare Essentials ($20-30 Total)
Alright, let’s graduate from “MacGyver builds a Gundam” to a more standard approach. This tier represents the true minimum investment needed to build Gunpla without causing physical pain to viewers.
Hobby nippers or side cutters are your first and most essential purchase, with options likeXuron 410s orBandai Basic Cuttersbeing perfect starter choices in the $10-15 range. The difference between proper hobby nippers and household cutting tools is immediately apparent, mostly because they’re specifically designed to cut plastic without crushing it.
A properhobby knife with replaceable #11 bladeswill transform your nub removal process. These are up around $5-10. This simple tool will eliminate 90% of the visible stress marks that other cutting methods leave behind. The real magic happens when you learn to use the blade at a shallow angle, essentially shaving the nub away in thin layers.
Fine-grit sandpaperorsanding sticks in the 600-1000 gritrange will handle the remaining cleanup after you’ve cut and trimmed the nub marks. For about $5, you can get a variety pack with different grits. Coarser ones for initial shaping and finer ones for polishing.
Finally, a decent pair ofstraight-tip tweezersrounds out the basic toolkit. They become indispensable when handling tiny parts, applying stickers, or retrieving that microscopic piece that just flew across the room and is now hiding somewhere in your carpet, plotting its escape. This basic toolkit fits in a pencil case and costs about the same as a High Grade kit.
Trimming nubs cleanly and accurately.
Accurate part handling and decal application.
Tier 2: The Weekend Warrior ($50-80 Total)
Now we’re entering “this is actually a hobby for me” territory. At this tier, your builds start looking significantly cleaner, with professional detailing touches that elevate them from toys to display pieces. Upgraded nippers are going to be your most useful purchase at this level.
Models likeGod Hand SPN-120,Dspiae ST-A, orTamiya Sharp Pointed Side Cuttersdeliver cutting performance that seems almost magical compared to basic nippers. The first time you use premium nippers, you’ll experience a moment of revelation as parts practically separate themselves from the runner with surgical precision.
Gundam Markers(around $10 for aset of black, gray, and brown) allow you to trace lines, adding definition and depth that brings out the mecha’s detailed surface. Black markers work best on white or light-colored parts, gray is ideal for red or medium-toned pieces, and brown creates subtle definition on yellow parts.
Acutting mat($10-15) seems like a trivial addition until you realize how much easier it makes your building process. These self-healing surfaces protect your work area while providing measurement grids and angle guides.
We’re also going to be moving on from sandpaper to metal files for a better finish.A basic settypically includes flat, round, and triangular profiles that access areas sandpaper can’t reach. It allows for controlled material removal, especially on flat surfaces where maintaining sharp edges is important.
Basic plastic cement, particularlyTamiya Extra Thin Cement($5), deserves a place in every toolkit despite Gunpla being snap-fit models. This isn’t for regular construction but is great for fixing broken pieces, modifying parts, or performing the dark arts of… seam line removal. At this tier, your Gunpla starts looking distinctly professional, with clean construction and deliberate detailing that separates them from casually assembled kits.
Adds depth and mechanical detail to recessed lines.
Protects surfaces and improves measurement and cutting accuracy.
Precision smoothing on flat and tricky surfaces.
Fix broken parts, fill seams, bond plastic permanently when needed.
Quick Tips & Warnings For Beginners
At this point, we’re going to take a quick water break, and go over some of the more important things to keep in mind if you’re still new to building Gundam kits. I highly doubt Tier 3 people are going to need them, so here is a good place to go over everything!
Why It Matters
Don’t use plastic cement on polycaps
It can melt the soft rubbery material and ruin the joint.
Cut twice, not once
First cut away from the part, then do a second cut closer. This is going to reduce some of the stress marks.
Never twist parts off the runner
Causes stress marks, bends pegs, or breaks small details. Always snip!
Panel line before applying topcoat
Panel lining over a matte finish can make cleanup difficult or smear ink.
Use a toothpick or cotton swab for sticker pressure
Fingers can be too oily or rough. Using a toothpick can help avoid tearing or bubbling.
Don’t rush seam line removal
It’s an advanced technique that can mess up your kit if rushed, so make sure you practice on scraps before.
Beware of pets and carpets
Small parts vanish into fur and floor forever. Use trays or light-colored mats.
Tier 3: The Dedicated Enthusiast ($100-200 Total)
Welcome to the danger zone, where your significant other starts questioning all the packages arriving from Japan and your “just one more tool” promises hold less water than aGundam in space. At this level, you’re creating miniature works of art with precision that approachesindustrial standards.
Quick note about the cutting, a dual-nipper approach becomes standard practice. You’re going to use workhorse nippers (the basic GodHand ones we saw earlier) for the initial runner removal and then saving your premium cutters (like the SPN-120) exclusively for the final cut close to the part surface.
I’d recommend going for aTamiya Panel Line Accent Colorover the markers. It cuts down a lot of your work time, and unlike markers that require steady hands and careful application, this enamel-based product flows directly into recessed panel lines through capillary action.
A properhobby holder($15-20) solves one of the most overlooked issues in model building: handling parts without transferring skin oils to the plastic. These devices grip parts securely while providing a comfortable handle on yourfavourite Gundam protagonist, allowing you to work from any angle without touching the part directly. Some of them even come with added perks like a magnifying glass so they’re pretty darn useful for advanced builds.
Micro chisel sets($15-25) definitely open up some possibilities for detailing and customization. These precision-ground tools allow you to clean tight corners, scrape mold lines from intricate areas, and even add custom panel lines and damage effects.
A proper modeling light with magnifier (here’s abasic oneandan advanced one) addresses the physical limitations that plague detail work. The built-in magnifier lets you inspect your work at better magnification, catching flaws invisible to the naked eye and allowing precision work on the smallest components.
Dual Nipper Setup
Rough cut with regular nipper, final cut with premium nipper for best results.
Liquid enamel flows into panel lines for professional finishes.
Hobby Parts Holder
Holds pieces securely to avoid fingerprints and improve angles while working.
Boosts visibility for precision detail work.
Tier 4: The “This Is My Personality Now” Collection ($300+)
At this point, you’ve crossed a threshold. Building Gunpla isn’t just something you do, it’s something youare. Your workspace resembles a miniature NASA clean room, and you refer to your cutting implements by their Japanese names with the reverence normally reserved for ancestral swords.
Anultrasonic cleaneruses high-frequency sound waves which dislodge things that no amount of hand-washing can remove. This is quite useful if you’re working with an older kit. You can also consider jumping to professional-grade scribing tools now. Once you’re ready, things likeBMC chisels,Madworks scribersenable you to add your own panel lines and surface details, effectively redesigning aspects of the kit to match your vision or reference material.
Tier 4 includes all the tools from Tier 3, plus additional advanced equipment. Think of it as building on what you already have, taking your hobby to the next level with customization and professional finishing tools.
Anairbrush setupis an addition that fundamentally changes your relationship with Gunpla. Suddenly, color is no longer dictated by what Bandai molded, and every surface becomes a canvas for your own color theory and artistic expression.
For thetrulycommitted,a 3D printeris the final frontier of customization. When existing parts don’t match your vision, simply design and print your own. People at this tier no longer build Gunpla, they create small-scale engineering projects that happen to resemble mobile suits from the Gundam universe.
Ultrasonic Cleaner
Deep cleans parts before painting or after sanding for dust-free results.
Pro Scribing Tools
Create or enhance custom panel lines with precise depth and width.
Full surface painting control and color customization.
Print custom parts, accessories, or fix missing kit pieces.
Organization systems prevent the unique frustration of having a part vanish mid-build. Parts organizers with divided compartments keep runners separated and identified, while magnetic trays capture tiny screws, polycaps, and metal parts that would otherwise perform impressive disappearing acts.
Bottom Line
We’ve basically explored the entire spectrum of Gunpla tools - from household implements to professional-grade equipment. And at the end of it all, one truth remains constant: the builder matters more than the tools. Even the most sophisticated toolkit can’t replace patience, attention to detail, and practiced technique. If you’re just starting out and are feeling intimidated by elaborate tool collections showcased online, remember that those arsenals developed gradually over years of building.
Frequently Asked Questions
My first build looks like it was assembled by a caffeinated raccoon. Is this normal?
Completely normal. In fact, it’s basically a rite of passage. That first kit serves a crucial purpose: to show you exactly what skills you need to develop. Keep it displayed prominently as a humbling reminder of how far you’ll progress. Your tenth kit will look significantly better, and by your twentieth, you’ll be explaining to confused houseguests why the panel lines on your RX-78-2 are actually historically accurate.
The stickers look terrible. Is there a better way to go about this?
Yes, and it’s calledwaterslide decals, the superior form of markings that integrate seamlessly with the plastic surface. Most High Grade kits come with stickers that are essentially tiny pieces of pre-cut tape with all the subtlety of a neon sign. Real Grade, Master Grade, and Perfect Grade kits often include waterslides, which use water to slide a microscopic film onto the model’s surface.
For kits that don’t include them, third-party waterslide decals can be purchased online. Just be prepared for the additional tools this rabbit hole requires: amark setter, a mark softer, and enough patience to outlast continental drift.
Do I need to watch the Gundam anime to build Gunpla?
No more than you need to understand chicken anatomy to enjoy a bucket of fried chicken. Some of my builder friends have never seen a single episode of any Gundam series but still appreciate the mechanical designs.
That said,watching the source materialcan add emotional connection to your builds and help you understand why certain mobile suits are designed the way they are. At minimum, knowing which faction your model belongs to might explain why you’re applying so many red decals to everything.
